Hand Embroidery Tutorials

Welcome to the March Stitch Along Project This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun! You will need: FabricSharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles6" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadFluffy Bunny Tail Pattern, Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent Floss Colors Carrots - OrangeCarrot Tops - GreenDirt - BrownRabbit - Blue or TanOr colors of your choice Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fill Stitch Use the long and short stitch to fill large shapes.  You can use one color or multiple for different shading.  Starting at the top or bottom of a shape, create a row of parallel stitches varying the length.  Next work a second row of long stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the stitch above.  Continue working rows until the shape is filled. When filling circles be careful not to go to far out on the sides or the circle will start to look more oval.  If you are having trouble keeping your stitches straight, use a ruler to draw parallel lines in. To complete the Stem Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Then holding your first stitch to the side slightly bring your needle up at 3 being careful not to pierce the first stitch.  Then go down at 4 to make your next stitch.  Your stitches will overlap slightly.  Stay consistent by always bringing your needle up on the same side of the stitch.  To complete the Split Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 stitching through the previous stitch piercing the strands of floss.  Create another stitch by bringing your needle down at 4 and up at 5 repeating the process. Turkey Work is used to make bushy carrot tops Instructions below A pompom made out of floss makes the perfect fluffy tail Step-by-step instructions for creating a pompom are available at the bottom of page.  Click here to go to the instructions. ----- Let's get Started! ----- Before you start stitching be sure your fabric is pressed and free of wrinkles or creases. Hoop your fabric and let's get stitching. Two different kits are available for this stitch along. If your kit includes a stick-and-stitch pattern, start here. If not, you can move on to Step One. (If the pattern is printed on the fabric, you don't have a stick-and-stitch pattern.)Stick-and-stitch patterns are printed on a Sulky water-soluble stabilizer. This stabilizer has a light adhesive back that sticks to the fabric. After stitching the design, remove the stabilizer from the fabric by soaking it in water. To use a stick-and-stitch pattern, start by trimming away any excess stabilizer. Then, remove the backing from the stick-and-stitch pattern. With the sticky side down, center the pattern in the hoop and press it against the front of the fabric. Trim away the excess stabilizer Trimming off excess stabilizer helps with pattern placement.  It also speeds up the rinsing process. Stick the pattern to the fabric Peel the paper backing off of the stabilizer.  Place the stabilizer sticky side down on the front of the fabric.  The pattern can be lifted and repositioned if necessary. Tips for Stitching on Sulky Water Soluble Stabilizer More detailed instructions are provided below but here are a few tips for working with water soluble stabilizer.The adhesive on stick-and-stitch stabilizer is very light. To keep the pattern from shifting add a few small stitches in the center and/or near the edges. Try to pick areas were these small stitches are part of the design, or can be removed, or hidden later. On This pattern I used the rabbit since that area will be covered by applique later. Outline your pattern with stitches, then rinse the stabilizer away before adding any applique or fill stitches. This is not crucial, you can stitch the entire design over top of the stabilizer. However, the stabilizer does create a space between the stitches and the fabric. Once the stabilizer is removed there is a tiny gap between your stitches and the fabric. I find removing the stabilizer before you add fill stitches will keep your stitches tighter and smoother. It also speeds up the rinsing process. The pattern fully disappears when washed away so be sure you have stitched an outline or marked every part of the pattern you want in your final piece before you rinse the fabric. Cut away any unstitched stabilizer before you rinse with water. Again, this is not required, but cutting away the stabilizer speeds up the rinsing process. I decided I didn't need to outline the rabbit for the applique placement, so I removed an unstitched area of stabilizer before rinsing. If you are not using an applique piece for the rabbit be sure to outline the rabbit in stitches before removing the stabilizer. You may need to rinse your fabric more than once. If any stiffness remains after the fabric is dry, repeat the rinsing process. If your needle becomes sticky from the adhesive, unthread your needle and clean the needle with dish soap and warm water or rubbing alcohol. Full instructions for Sulky Printable Stabilizer can be found at wildflowerfox.com/pages/sulky-sticky-fabri-solvy-stabilizer Outlining the Print and Stitch Pattern Start by outlining the carrots with a back stitch in one strand of orange. Then, using long single stitches, stitch the carrot tops in one strand of green floss. Next, using one strand of brown floss stitch a simple line for the dirt with your preferred outline stitch. These lines are just to mark the fabric. I used a running stitch, but the back stitch, split stitch or stem stitch will all work. You will be adding more stitches later to give the dirt a bit of texture. You can also add or omit dirt lines.If you are using an applique for the rabbit, I don't recommend outlining the rabbit. The rabbit applique is easy to place without an outline.If you are NOT using an applique for the rabbit be sure to outline the rabbit before you rinse away the stabilizer.When all of the necessary parts of the design have been marked by stitches, unhoop your fabric and begin rinsing the stabilizer away. Start by carefully cutting away the excess stabilizer. Remove any that remains by submerging and agitating the project in warm water for 2 to 3 minutes or use your kitchen spray hose or faucet by holding the project at an angle under the running water; rinse from top to bottom to be sure all the ink is flowing away from your project. Rinse thoroughly. Air dry on a towel. If any stiffness remains after it is dry, simply repeat the process. • While the fabric is drying, cut out the rabbit applique. Bunny Applique Sticker To use the outline of the rabbit sticker, remove the backing, and center it on the tan piece of felt. Stick it to the felt. Cut Out Bunny Applique With scissors, cut out the rabbit shape.  Felt Bunny Applique Once the rabbit shape is entirely cut out, remove the sticker. The sticker is no longer needed. Step One - The Bunny Step One - The Bunny (no applique) Use these instructions if you are not using an applique 6 strand / Split StitchStart by outlining the Bunny.  Use two or more strands of floss in the outline stitch of your choice.  The example image was created using 6-strands in a split stitch. Step One - The Bunny Applique Use these instructions if you are adding an applique 1 Strand / Running StitchOnce your fabric is fully dry, rehoop it.  Then put the felt rabbit in place.  When you are happy with the rabbit's position, put two small stitches in the rabbit's butt behind where the tail will go.  This will keep the felt in place as you stitch around the edges.  If you prefer the stitches around the rabbit to be less noticeable, use a running stitch with small short stitches.  For stitches that stand out more, use a back stitch with longer stitch lengths.  Staying close to the edge, use the tan thread and stitch all the way around the rabbit.  You can add some dimension by leaving the rabbit's ears loose (not stitched down). Step Two - Dirt 3 to 6 - Strands / Misc StitchesA - The lines provided are suggestions of mounds of dirt. Embellish these lines by making some areas thicker. Use different types of stitches to create texture in the soil. Try mixing up the split stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, or running stitch to add random texture to the dirt. The example was stitched with 3 strands for all of the dirt.B - The pattern shows carrot tops here but no outline for carrots. It's your choice if you want to add visible carrots or build the dirt up to meet the carrot tops. Step 3 - Carrots 1 Strand Outline / Back Stitch. 1 or 2 Strands Fill StitchYou have two options for the carrots. You can leave them as an outline or you can fill them in. A - If you haven't already done so, start by outlining the carrots in a back stitch with 1 strand of orange floss. If you want to leave the carrots as outlines only, stitch the horizontal groove lines in orange also. B - If you are filling in your carrots and want to make the carrots look a little rounded add a few vertical stitches to the center before you do the fill stitches. Adding the vertical stitches will add a bit of lift to the center giving the carrots a rounded look. C - Next, fill the carrots in with 1 or 2-strands using long/short stitches. For a smoother texture on the carrots, use 1 strand. For a rougher texture, use 2 strands of floss (2 strands were used in the example photo). Like the grooves in a carrot, the long/short stitch should be parallel to the top of the carrot.D - Finish Filling in all of the carrots with long short stitches. For added detail add a few dirt filled grooves to the carrots using 1 strand of brown floss. Stagger 3 to 5 small single stitches on each carrot. Step Four - Carrot Tops 1 to 2 Strands / Single Stitch. 3 Strand / Turkey WorkIf you haven't done so already, start by covering the pattern lines for the carrot tops with long single stitches in green floss. After you stitch the two dimensional carrot tops, you can either leave them that way, or you can add turkey work over top for more bushy carrot tops. Instructions for the turkey work stitch are below. Because the carrot tops are so small you can only put 2 or 3 turkey stitches on each. If you want a thicker carrot top you can stack your turkey stitches. To stack your stitches, place two stitches at the top of the carrot and then two more directly behind the first two but slightly staggered. --- Turkey Work --- Step 1 Use 3 Strands of Floss Without a knot at the end of the thread, bring your needle down into the fabric from the front.  Pull your thread so just a small tail of thread is left on the front of the fabric. Step 2 Bring your needle up from the back of the fabric just to the left of the tail of thread.  Don't pull too hard, you want to leave the tail on the front of the fabric.  Hold the tail down with your finger if you need to. Step 3 Cross in front of the thread tail, then bring the needle down into the fabric to the right of the thread tail. Step 4 Leaving a temporary small loop of thread on the front of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric from the back, between the thread tail and your last stitch Step 5 Pull the thread up through the fabric pulling the temporary loop closed.  This creates a holding stitch that traps the thread tail and the working thread within the loop.   Second Turkey Stitch Continue to the right.  Start the second turkey stitch by leaving a permanent loop on the front of the fabric. Like the first turkey stitch, come up on the left side of the last single stitch.  Repeat steps 3-5.Because the carrot tops are so small, 2 or 3 turkey stitches should be enough.   After placing 2 or 3 stitches, cut your working thread at the front of the fabric. Cut your loop(s)    Trim the thread if needed.  Gently fluff the thread with your fingers. Finally the Fluffy Tail Instructions for making a Pompom out of embroidery floss are below. The kit includes both a premade pompom and white floss for making your own. If you purchased a kit you can use either the premade pompom or make one of your own.If you don't want to make a pompom, premade ones are available at most craft stores. You can also use a fluffy cotton ball.Attach the pompom to the fabric with a small cross stitch in the center of the pompom. Your stitches should be very small and disappear into the fluff. Start by bringing your needle up from the back of the fabric and pierce the pompom just off-center. Make a small diagonal stitch bringing your needle back down through the center of the pompom and the fabric. Do a second stitch across the first stitch at the opposite angle to create a cross stitch. Tie your thread off on the back of the fabric. --- Creating a Pompom --- Making a pompom for the tail requires a full skein of floss.  I suggest white foss for the tail but I used a darker color here so it would be easier to see.Start by cutting an 8 to 10 inch length of floss for the tie.  Set that aside for now. For this tutorial I am using a fork to wrap my thread around.  There are a number of ways to make a pompom but using a fork creates the perfect size pompom for the tail. Pulling from the numbered end of the skein, hold the floss against the fork tines. Begin wrapping the floss around the fork.  It doesn't matter what direction you wrap.  Go all the way around the fork and do not weave the floss between the tines. Keep wrapping the floss around the fork until you have used up the skein Next, thread the length of floss you cut for a tie through the center tines of the fork. Then wrap the tie around the bundle of floss.  Tie it but do not make a knot. Slip the bundle off of the fork.  Be sure to keep your tie thread tight so the bundle stays together. Pull your tie thread very tight.  When it is as tight as you can get it, tie it in a knot.  It is very helpful if you have a second person that can put their finger on the tie to hold it tight while you tie the knot. Once your knot is tied you will have a small bundle with loops all the way around. Using a small scissor, cut the loops open.  Do this all the way around the bundle. There is a good chance not all of the loops were cut the first time around.  So thumb through the fibers and cut any more loops you find. Cut the tails off of the tie thread. Gently give your pompom a fluff and shape it a bit with your fingers.  Orientate the pompom in whatever direction it looks best.  I positioned this one so the tie thread is horizontal or parallel with the fabric.  This position gave me the best ball shape and hid the tie thread well.  Shape the pompom into a ball by trimming any uneven areas with a small scissors.  Be careful not to cut too much.  Displaying Your Finished Work There are a number of ways to display a finished embroidery piece. You can leave it in the hoop, make a small quilted wall hanging, or mount it in a frame, just to name a few. If you frame it in the hoop you can hang it on the wall or place it in a display stand.You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project with a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back.For this piece I used wood stain on an inexpensive wood hoop. Finishing the Back If you choose to frame your embroidery in the hoop you will want to finish the back. To do this you will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. To completely cover the back you can cut a piece of felt the same size as the hoop and stitch it or glue it to the back. Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media.I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxcrafts Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. In The Hoop Newsletter Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more … Subscribe Welcome to the March Stitch Along Project - Begins March 15th This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun!Step-by-step instructions will be added on March 15th, 16th & 17th. Follow along or work at your own pace. You will need: FabricSharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles6" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadFluffy Bunny Tail Pattern, Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent Floss Colors Carrots - OrangeCarrot Tops - GreenDirt - BrownRabbit - Blue or TanOr colors of your choice Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fill Stitch Use the long and short stitch to fill large shapes.  You can use one color or multiple for different shading.  Starting at the top or bottom of a shape, create a row of parallel stitches varying the length.  Next work a second row of long stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the stitch above.  Continue working rows until the shape is filled. When filling circles be careful not to go to far out on the sides or the circle will start to look more oval.  If you are having trouble keeping your stitches straight, use a ruler to draw parallel lines in. To complete the Stem Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Then holding your first stitch to the side slightly bring your needle up at 3 being careful not to pierce the first stitch.  Then go down at 4 to make your next stitch.  Your stitches will overlap slightly.  Stay consistent by always bringing your needle up on the same side of the stitch.  To complete the Split Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 stitching through the previous stitch piercing the strands of floss.  Create another stitch by bringing your needle down at 4 and up at 5 repeating the process. Turkey Work is used to make bushy carrot tops Turkey Work instructions will be posted on March 17th A pompom made out of floss makes the perfect fluffy tail Instructions for making a pompom will be posted on March 17th ----- Let's get Started! ----- Before you start stitching be sure your fabric is pressed and free of wrinkles or creases. Hoop your fabric and let's get stitching. Stick-and-Stitch Pattern Two different kits are available for this stitch along. If your kit includes a stick-and-stitch pattern, start here. If not, you can move on to Step One. (If the pattern is printed on the fabric, you don't have a stick-and-stitch pattern.)Stick-and-stitch patterns are printed on a Sulky water-soluble stabilizer. This stabilizer has a light adhesive back that sticks to the fabric. After stitching the design, remove the stabilizer from the fabric by soaking it in water. To use a stick-and-stitch pattern, start by trimming away any excess stabilizer. Then, remove the backing from the stick-and-stitch pattern. With the sticky side down, center the pattern in the hoop and press it against the front of the fabric. Trim away the excess stabilizer Trimming off excess stabilizer helps with pattern placement.  It also speeds up the rinsing process. Stick the pattern to the fabric Peel the paper backing off of the stabilizer.  Place the stabilizer sticky side down on the front of the fabric.  The pattern can be lifted and repositioned if necessary. Tips for Stitching on Sulky Water Soluble Stabilizer More detailed instructions are provided below but here are a few tips for working with water soluble stabilizer.The adhesive on stick-and-stitch stabilizer is very light. To keep the pattern from shifting add a few small stitches in the center and/or near the edges. Try to pick areas were these small stitches are part of the design, or can be removed, or hidden later. On This pattern I used the rabbit since that area will be covered by applique later. Outline your pattern with stitches, then rinse the stabilizer away before adding any applique or fill stitches. This is not crucial, you can stitch the entire design over top of the stabilizer. However, the stabilizer does create a space between the stitches and the fabric. Once the stabilizer is removed there is a tiny gap between your stitches and the fabric. I find removing the stabilizer before you add fill stitches will keep your stitches tighter and smoother. It also speeds up the rinsing process. The pattern fully disappears when washed away so be sure you have stitched an outline or marked every part of the pattern you want in your final piece before you rinse the fabric. Cut away any unstitched stabilizer before you rinse with water. Again, this is not required, but cutting away the stabilizer speeds up the rinsing process. I decided I didn't need to outline the rabbit for the applique placement, so I removed an unstitched area of stabilizer before rinsing. If you are not using an applique piece for the rabbit be sure to outline the rabbit in stitches before removing the stabilizer. You may need to rinse your fabric more than once. If any stiffness remains after the fabric is dry, repeat the rinsing process. If your needle becomes sticky from the adhesive, unthread your needle and clean the needle with dish soap and warm water or rubbing alcohol. Full instructions for Sulky Printable Stabilizer can be found at wildflowerfox.com/pages/sulky-sticky-fabri-solvy-stabilizer Outlining the Print and Stitch Pattern Start by outlining the carrots with a back stitch in one strand of orange. Then, using long single stitches, stitch the carrot tops in one strand of green floss. Next, using one strand of brown floss stitch a simple line for the dirt with your preferred outline stitch. These lines are just to mark the fabric. I used a running stitch, but the back stitch, split stitch or stem stitch will all work. You will be adding more stitches later to give the dirt a bit of texture. You can also add or omit dirt lines.If you are using an applique for the rabbit, I don't recommend outlining the rabbit. The rabbit applique is easy to place without an outline.If you are NOT using an applique for the rabbit be sure to outline the rabbit before you rinse away the stabilizer.When all of the necessary parts of the design have been marked by stitches, unhoop your fabric and begin rinsing the stabilizer away. Start by carefully cutting away the excess stabilizer. Remove any that remains by submerging and agitating the project in warm water for 2 to 3 minutes or use your kitchen spray hose or faucet by holding the project at an angle under the running water; rinse from top to bottom to be sure all the ink is flowing away from your project. Rinse thoroughly. Air dry on a towel. If any stiffness remains after it is dry, simply repeat the process. • While the fabric is drying, cut out the rabbit applique. Bunny Applique Sticker To use the outline of the rabbit sticker, remove the backing, and center it on the tan piece of felt. Stick it to the felt. Cut Out Bunny Applique With scissors, cut out the rabbit shape.  Felt Bunny Applique Once the rabbit shape is entirely cut out, remove the sticker. The sticker is no longer needed. Step One - The Bunny Step One - The Bunny (no applique) Use these instructions if you are not using an applique 6 strand / Split StitchStart by outlining the Bunny.  Use two or more strands of floss in the outline stitch of your choice.  The example image was created using 6-strands in a split stitch. Step One - The Bunny Applique Use these instructions if you are adding an applique 1 Strand / Running StitchOnce your fabric is fully dry, rehoop it.  Then put the felt rabbit in place.  When you are happy with the rabbit's position, put two small stitches in the rabbit's butt behind where the tail will go.  This will keep the felt in place as you stitch around the edges.  If you prefer the stitches around the rabbit to be less noticeable, use a running stitch with small short stitches.  For stitches that stand out more, use a back stitch with longer stitch lengths.  Staying close to the edge, use the tan thread and stitch all the way around the rabbit.  You can add some dimension by leaving the rabbit's ears loose (not stitched down). Step Two - Dirt 3 to 6 - Strands / Misc StitchesA - The lines provided are suggestions of mounds of dirt. Embellish these lines by making some areas thicker. Use different types of stitches to create texture in the soil. Try mixing up the split stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, or running stitch to add random texture to the dirt. The example was stitched with 3 strands for all of the dirt.B - The pattern shows carrot tops here but no outline for carrots. It's your choice if you want to add visible carrots or build the dirt up to meet the carrot tops. Step 3 - Carrots Instructions available on March 16th Carrot Details Instructions available on March 16th Step Four - Carrot Tops Instructions available on March 17th Finally the Fluffy Tail Instructions available on March 17th Displaying Your Finished Work There are a number of ways to display a finished embroidery piece. You can leave it in the hoop, make a small quilted wall hanging, or mount it in a frame, just to name a few. If you frame it in the hoop you can hang it on the wall or place it in a display stand.You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project with a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back.For this piece I used wood stain on an inexpensive wood hoop. Finishing the Back If you choose to frame your embroidery in the hoop you will want to finish the back. To do this you will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. To completely cover the back you can cut a piece of felt the same size as the hoop and stitch it or glue it to the back. Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media.I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxcrafts Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. In The Hoop Newsletter Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more … Subscribe

This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun! You will need: Sharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles6" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadLet it Snow Pattern, Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent DMC Floss Colors White, B5200 or Blue 3766Or colors of your choice ----- Let's get Started! ----- Fusible Embroidery Stabilizer Using a stabilizer is not required when doing hand embroidery, but a stabilizer will firm the fabric and improve stitch quality. For best results a stabilizer is recommended with the printed fabric pattern. If you purchase the kit a square of fusible embroidery stabilizer is included.Iron the stabilizer to the fabric before you begin stitching. To ensure your iron stays clean you can put a pressing cloth or old flour-sack dish towel over the top of the stabilizer before pressing. (Pressing cloth not shown)Place your fabric face down on a flat heat-safe surface (ironing board or equivalent). Press lightly with a hot dry (no steam) iron to remove any creases. Next center the stabilizer SHINY SIDE DOWN over your fabric. The shiny side is adhesive and must be in contact with the back of the fabric. Using a dry iron on its hottest setting press the stabilizer to the fabric. Starting in the center hold the iron on each section for 8-10 seconds, working your way outward. Be sure to get the edges. Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fly Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2, leaving a loop. Come up at 3 with the needle over the loop, pull the thread to a V shape. Go down at 4 to anchor the V shape. To complete the French Knot Note: This stitch requires two hands.  The french knot can be a little tricky to master but once you get the hang of it, it will become one of your favorite stitches.Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1.  Keeping the needle point close to the fabric at 1, wrap the thread around the needle 2 or 3 times.  With the needle point resting on 2 pull the thread taut and down to the needle point.  Then bring the needle down in 2 right next to 1 but not in the same hole.   To complete the Eyelet or Star Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 2.  Work your way around the star shape always starting your stitch on the outside and ending it in the middle of the star. To complete the Smyrna or Double Cross Stitch The Smyrna Cross Stitch looks similar to the Eyelet Stitch but instead of having a hole in the center the thread goes all the way across making an x over a +.  Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4.  Continue around.  To complete the Fill or Long/Short Stitch Use the long and short stitch to fill large shapes.  You can use one color or multiple for different shading.  Starting at the top or bottom of a shape, create a row of parallel stitches varying the length.  Next work a second row of long stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the stitch above.  Continue working rows until the shape is filled.When filling circles be careful not to go to far out on the sides or the circle will start to look more oval.  If you are having trouble keeping your stitches straight, use a ruler to draw parallel lines in. This pattern can be stitched in 1 to 3 strands of embroidery floss depending on how full you want your snowflakes to be. You can keep them all the same or try a different number of strands on each snowflake. Snowflake One (This snowflake was stitched in two strands of floss. For comparison the next snowflake was stitched in three strands.)1. Choose an arm of the snowflake and start at the outside and work your way to the center. 2. Start by outlining the diamond shape with a back stitch. Then stitch the center line of the diamond, by going from top to bottom. 3. Complete the first fly stitch.4. Add the french knots to both tips, then complete the next fly stitch. 5. Finish the arm by completing the fly stitches. Your needle should enter the center of the snowflake from the front of the fabric.6. To stitch the short arm, create a french knot at the tip. Then bring the needle up from the back just under the french knot being careful not to catch the knot with your needle point. Then make one long stitch and enter the fabric at the center of the snowflake again.7. Work your way around the snowflake completing one arm at a time. Snowflake Two (This snowflake was stitched in three stands of floss.)1. Start with the center ring of squares. The center is two squares with diamond corners. Using the back stitch, stitch one square all the way around and then the other.2. Next stitch the outer ring of boxes.3. Starting at the bottom of the diamond, back stitch around the diamond. Make one stitch, then complete the fly stitch but anchor the fly stitch by bringing your needle down at A. Next stitch the cross bar just above A. Then bring your needle back up through the fabric at A and create one long straight stitch to the center of the snowflake.4. Complete this arm the same way, but instead of a short stitch at the bottom of the diamond, stitch from the top of the diamond to the center of the fly stitch. Snowflake Three (This snowflake was stitched in two strands.)1. Choose an arm of the snowflake and start at the outside and work your way to the center. 2. Start by outlining the outermost diamond shape with a back stitch, do not stitch any of the diamond center lines yet.3. Add the french knots to both tips, then complete the fly stitch.4. Outline the next two diamonds with a back stitch.5. Then from the back bring your needle up through the fabric at the center of the snowflake. Create one long stitch from the center of the snowflake to the tip of the outermost diamond.6. To stitch the short arm, create a french knot at the tip. Then bring the needle up from the back just under the french knot being careful not to catch the knot with your needle point. Then make one long stitch and enter the fabric at the center of the snowflake.7. Work your way around the snowflake completing one arm at a time. Let it Snow Lettering There are a few ways you can stitch the lettering.You can outline the letters with a back stitch.Use a fill stitch to fill them in.Use french knots for a snowball look.Or you can leave them un-stitched.This example was done with two strands of floss and fill stitches on “let it”, and two strands of floss and french knots on “snow” The Little Snowflakes The little snowflakes dancing around the larger ones can be stitched with either an eyelet stitch or Smyrna cross stitch (double cross stitch). The difference between the two is the eyelet stitch has a shared center but the Smyrna stitch extends from one side to the other without a center point. In this example both Eyelet and Smyrna stitches were used in this example. The smallest snowflakes were stitched in one strand of floss and the larger in two or three strands. Displaying Your Finished Work There are a number of ways to display a finished embroidery piece. You can leave it in the hoop, make a small quilted wall hanging, or mount it in a frame, just to name a few. This piece looks great finished in the hoop. You can leave the hoop with its natural wood finish or decorate it for a unique look. The hoop shown here was painted with white and light blue, then set in an embroidery hoop display stand to make it look like a snow globe. You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project with a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back. Finishing the Back You will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. Add Some Sparkle To make your piece really pop try adding a few sequence or seed beads.For a more subtle shimmering effect try a specialty thread or floss. Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media.I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxcrafts Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. In The Hoop Newsletter Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more … Subscribe

Tutorial This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun! You will need: Sharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles5" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadHeirloom Snowflake, Pattern, Printed Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent DMC Floss Colors White or 930 Antique Blue6 Strand or Pearl CottonCover image was stitched in 930 #5 Cotton Pearl ----- Let's get Started! ----- Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fly Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2, leaving a loop. Come up at 3 with the needle over the loop, pull the thread to a V shape. Go down at 4 to anchor the V shape. To complete the French Knot Note: This stitch requires two hands.  The french knot can be a little tricky to master but once you get the hang of it, it will become one of your favorite stitches.Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1.  Keeping the needle point close to the fabric at 1, wrap the thread around the needle 2 or 3 times.  With the needle point resting on 2 pull the thread taut and down to the needle point.  Then bring the needle down in 2 right next to 1 but not in the same hole.   The kit for this pattern includes either #5 pearl embroidery floss or 6 strand floss. If you are using six strand floss I suggest using 3 strands. Snowflake Center Start with the center diamonds of the snowflake. Long single stitches from each corner of the diamonds were used to complete the center. If you follow the steps below you can complete the center without any jump stitches. You needle with also always enter into the shared center hole from the front. 1. Bring the needle up from the back of your fabric at #1, then down into the fabric at #2 to create your first stitch.2. Bring the needle up from the back at #3 and then down into the fabric at #2 to complete your second stitch.3. Bring the needle up from the back at #3 again and then down into the fabric at #4 4. Bring the needle up from the back at #1 again and then down into the fabric at #4. This completes your first diamond.5. Moving to the right bring the needle up from the back at the #1 spot of the next diamond and continue around the same as the first.6. Finish all of the diamonds in the center and tie off and cut your thread. Snowflake Arms Step 1 The steps below will allow you to create the snowflake arms without any jump stitches. 1. Start with the outer diamond Up 1 down at 2, up at 3 down 2, up at 3 down at 4, up at 1 down at 42. Bring your needle up at #1 again and then down into the fabric at #5.3. Create your first fly stitch. This stitch will end with your needle going down into the fabric at #64. Next bring your needle up from the back of the fabric at #7. Make a two or three wrap french knot. Then in a new hole just under the french knot bring the needle to the front of the fabric again (be careful not to catch the french knot with your needle point). Then down into the fabric at #65. Bring your needle up at #8, add a french knot and enter the fabric at #6 again. Snowflake Arms Step 2 To avoid jump stitches on the arms I used a tiny hidden stitch to get the needle back where I need it to continue creating fly stitches. 1. Bring the needle up from the back of the fabric just a little below #6 and then back down into the fabric creating a tiny stitch. This stitch will be hidden after completing the next step.2. Bring the needle up from the back of the fabric at #6 then back down in the V of the next fly stitch.3. Continue by creating the next four fly stitches. Dots Place one french knot between each of the snowflake arms. Displaying Your Finished Work Although there are a lot of ways to display a finished embroidery piece, many stitchers like to frame their embroidery right in the hoop. You can leave the hoop with its natural wood finish or decorate it for a unique look. The hoop shown here was painted with white and light blue, then set in an embroidery hoop display stand to make it look like a snow globe. You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project in a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back. Finishing the Back You will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media.I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxcrafts Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. In The Hoop Newsletter Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more … JOIN

Tutorial This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun! You will need: Sharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles6" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadPumpkin Trio Pattern, Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent DMC Floss Colors 7419467219049883011Or colors of your choice Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fill Stitch Use the long and short stitch to fill large shapes.  You can use one color or multiple for different shading.  Starting at the top or bottom of a shape, create a row of parallel stitches varying the length.  Next work a second row of long stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the stitch above.  Continue working rows until the shape is filled. When filling circles be careful not to go to far out on the sides or the circle will start to look more oval.  If you are having trouble keeping your stitches straight, use a ruler to draw parallel lines in. To complete the Stem Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Then holding your first stitch to the side slightly bring your needle up at 3 being careful not to pierce the first stitch.  Then go down at 4 to make your next stitch.  Your stitches will overlap slightly.  Stay consistent by always bringing your needle up on the same side of the stitch.  To complete the Split Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 stitching through the previous stitch piercing the strands of floss.  Create another stitch by bringing your needle down at 4 and up at 5 repeating the process. ----- Let's get Started! ----- Before you start stitching be sure your fabric is pressed and free of wrinkles or creases. Hoop your fabric and let's get stitching. This pattern is stitched with three and six strands of floss. I used a size 1 needle throughout the pattern. You can use whatever needles you have on hand as long as you can comfortably fit 6 strands into the eye. Because of the simplicity of the pattern it doesn't matter what order you stitch it in. You can stitch each lettered section in full or for fewer thread changes you can stitch each color in full. For the fewest thread changes, stitch each color in full in this order 3011, 904, 721, 741, 946, 988. Just make sure you stitch the large pumpkin (K) before you stitch the top vine (L). Left Stem & Left Pumpkin A - Left StemDMC 3011 & 904 3 StrandsFill StitchThe pumpkin stems can be outlined only, but to add a little more flair I filled them in. Stitching at a slight angle will give your stem a twisted look. Start with the darkest green 3011, this is the recessed area of the stem. Add just a few stitches where you want your stem to have a valley. Next fill the rest of the stem in with 904 green. Last, add a few highlights with 988 green. Using different shades of green will give the illusion of twists and valleys.B - Left Pumpkin DMC 7216 StrandsSplit Stitch Right Stem & Right Pumpkin C - Right StemDMC 3011, 904, 9883 StrandsFill StitchTo give the pumpkins a little personality and create different textures I used a different stitch on each one. If you prefer a more uniform look they can all be done in whatever stitch you prefer. D - Right PumpkinDMC 7416 StrandsBack Stitch Leaves E - All Leave VeinsDMC 9883 StrandsSplit StitchThe leaves can all be the same color or you can change it up a bit. The back stitch makes it easy to follow the bends.F - Left lower LeafDMC 30116 StrandBack StitchG - Right LeafDMC 9046 StrandsBack Stitch Stem and Top Leaf H - StemDMC 3011, 904, 9883 StrandsFill StitchDon't stitch the top vine yet. Stitch that after you stitch the center pumpkin. You want the green over top of the orange. I - Top LeafDMC 9046 StrandsBack Stitch Bottom Vines and Center Pumkin Stem stitches can be a little tricky on very tight curves. To make it easier you can change your stitch type midway. If the back stitch or split stitch is easier for you on tight curves, you can start with one of them and change to a stem stitch on the straight away. J - Bottom VinesDMC 9043 StrandsStem StitchK - Center PumpkinDMC 9466 StrandsStem Stitch Top Vine The top vine in the image to the right was stitched with 3 strands of floss. It gets a little lost in the curve of the pumpkin. For a thicker, fuller vine use 6 strands of flossL - Top VineDMC 9883 to 6 StrandsSplit Stitch Displaying Your Finished Work There are a number of ways to display a finished embroidery piece. You can leave it in the hoop, make a small quilted wall hanging, or mount it in a frame, just to name a few. If you frame it in the hoop you can hang it on the wall or place it in a display stand.You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project with a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back.For this piece I used wood stain on an an inexpensive wood hoop. Finishing the Back If you choose to frame your embroidery in the hoop you will want to finish the back. To do this you will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. To completely cover the back you can cut a piece of felt the same size as the hoop and stitch it or glue it to the back. This pattern looks great on dish towels. Change up the colors to fit your style or décor. Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media.I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxcrafts Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. In The Hoop Newsletter Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more … Subscribe Tutorial This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun! You will need: Sharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles6" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadPumpkin Trio Pattern, Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent DMC Floss Colors 7419467219049883011Or colors of your choice ----- Let's get Started! ----- Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fill Stitch Use the long and short stitch to fill large shapes.  You can use one color or multiple for different shading.  Starting at the top or bottom of a shape, create a row of parallel stitches varying the length.  Next work a second row of long stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the stitch above.  Continue working rows until the shape is filled. When filling circles be careful not to go to far out on the sides or the circle will start to look more oval.  If you are having trouble keeping your stitches straight, use a ruler to draw parallel lines in. To complete the Stem Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Then holding your first stitch to the side slightly bring your needle up at 3 being careful not to pierce the first stitch.  Then go down at 4 to make your next stitch.  Your stitches will overlap slightly.  Stay consistent by always bringing your needle up on the same side of the stitch.  To complete the Split Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 stitching through the previous stitch piercing the strands of floss.  Create another stitch by bringing your needle down at 4 and up at 5 repeating the process. Terms Before you start stitching be sure your fabric is pressed and free of wrinkles or creases. Hoop your fabric and let's get stitching. This pattern is stitched with three and six strands of floss. I used a size 1 needle throughout the pattern. You can use whatever needles you have on hand as long as you can comfortably fit 6 strands into the eye. Because of the simplicity of the pattern it doesn't matter what order you stitch it in. You can stitch each lettered section in full or for fewer thread changes you can stitch each color in full. For the fewest thread changes, stitch each color in full in this order 3011, 904, 721, 741, 946, 988. Just make sure you stitch the large pumpkin (K) before you stitch the top vine (L). A & B, Left Stem & Left Pumpkin A - Left Stem, DMC 3011 & 904, Three Strands, Fill StitchThe pumpkin stems can be outlined only, but to add a little more flair I filled them in. Stitching at a slight angle will give your stem a twisted look. Start with the darkest green 3011, this is the recessed area of the stem. Add just a few stitches where you want your stem to have a valley. Next fill the rest of the stem in with 904 green. Last, add a few highlights with 988 green. Using different shades of green will give the illusion of twists and valleys.B - Left Pumpkin, DMC 721, 6 Strands, Split StitchTo give the pumpkins a little personality and create different textures I used a different stitch on each one. If you prefer a more uniform look they can all be done in whatever stitch you prefer. C & D DMC 105 variegatedFill stitch with two strands of staggered flossIf you are new to the fill stitch, branches are a great place to start. They are bumpy, twisted and full of protrusions, so there is no need to worry about having perfect stitches. All of the branches are stitched in two strands of staggered floss. I made it a point to get some of the lightest part of the thread in there for highlights. A French knot was also added at the end of the branch in the upper left corner (of the image) to make it look like it had been cut. Leaves DMC 4066 variegatedSplit stitch or back stitch in one or two strands of staggered floss for the outline. The Fly Stitch for the veins.There are a variety of ways to stitch leaves. The leaves shown here are stitched with a combination of back stitches and split stitches. The veins of the larger leaves are stitched with two strands of staggered floss. The veins of the smaller leaves are stitched with one strand of floss. All of the leaves are outlined with two strands of staggered floss. If you look closely you will see I stitched each leaf a little differently. I think it looks a little more natural that way but if you prefer a more consistent look they can all be stitched the same. You could also fill the leaves in with a fish bone stitch or fill stitch. Apple Blossoms DMC 4180 variegated & DMC 725Split stitch and back stitch outlines.French Knots or Cross Stitch Centers One, two or three strands depending on the size of the flower.Like the leaves the flowers are stitched a little differently depending on their size. Larger flowers are created with a split stitch and three strands of floss on the outline and one to two strands in the center. Smaller flowers are made with a back stitch in two strands of floss for the outline and one strand in the center. For the yellow centers use either a cross stitch or French knots in two strands of floss. For a more consistent look all of the flowers can be stitched the same. Bees DMC 310, 307, 67 variegatedBack stitch and fill stitch in one to two strands of flossThe body is outlined with a back stitch in two strands of yellow. Then filled using two strands. Each black and yellow section will take 3 to 5 stitches to fill. The head is outlined in two strands of black and then filled with two strands. If you do not want the outline of the body visible, your fill stitches can extend over the top of the outline. To do this start your fill stitches on the outside of the outline and extend them over the top. The legs and antennas are one strand of black.The wings are outline with a back stitch in one strand of floss of the lightest section of the 67 blue variegated. For bolder wings you could use a darker section of blue or black. Text This pattern is available with a blank space in the rings or Mom. You can easily add any name, monogram or phase you like. DMC 321 (optional text)Split back stitch in two or three strands of flossA split-back stitch is a combination of the split stitch and the back stitch. It is made just like a back stitch but instead of the needle entering the fabric at the last stitch hole you move back slightly and split the previous stitch entering the fabric from the top instead of from the bottom.The advantage to a split-back stitch is it very easy to make small smooth split stitches for curvy areas such as letting. The disadvantage is it uses a lot more thread.Letters can also be stitched in a normal back stitch or split stitch. The image shows a split-back stitch in three strands of floss. Displaying Your Finished Work There are a number of ways to display a finished embroidery piece. You can leave it in the hoop, make a small quilted wall hanging, or mount it in a frame, just to name a few. If you frame it in the hoop you can hang it on the wall or place it in a display stand.(Display stand available here)You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project with a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back. Finishing the Back If you choose to frame your embroidery in the hoop you will want to finish the back. To do this you will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. To completely cover the back you can cut a piece of felt the same size as the hoop and stitch it or glue it to the back. This pattern looks great on dish towels. Change up the colors to fit your theme or decor. Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media. I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxink or #wildflowerfoxemb Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. 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This guide will walk you through all of the steps and techniques used to stitch this pattern. The information in this guide is merely a suggestion so please feel free to make changes to colors, stitches or techniques to make it your own. There is no right or wrong way to stitch this pattern, so relax and have fun! You will need: Sharp ScissorsEmbroidery Needles6" Embroidery HoopEmbroidery Floss or ThreadApple Blossoms & Honey Bees Pattern, Fabric or KitIron and Ironing-board or Equivalent DMC Floss Colors Rings - 67Bees - 310, 307, 67Branch - 105Flowers - 4180, 973Leaves - 4066Words - 321Or colors of your choice ----- Let's get Started! ----- Fusible Embroidery Stabilizer Using a stabilizer is not required when doing hand embroidery, but a stabilizer will firm the fabric and improve stitch quality. For best results a stabilizer is recommended with the printed fabric pattern. If you purchase the kit a square of fusible embroidery stabilizer is included.Iron the stabilizer to the fabric before you begin stitching. To ensure your iron stays clean you can put a pressing cloth or old flour-sack dish towel over the top of the stabilizer before pressing. (Pressing cloth not shown)Place your fabric face down on a flat heat-safe surface (ironing board or equivalent). Press lightly with a hot dry (no steam) iron to remove any creases. Next center the stabilizer SHINY SIDE DOWN over your fabric. The shiny side is adhesive and must be in contact with the back of the fabric. Using a dry iron on its hottest setting press the stabilizer to the fabric. Starting in the center hold the iron on each section for 8-10 seconds, working your way outward. Be sure to get the edges. Fusible embroidery stabilizer is available here. Stitches Used in this Project To complete the Back Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2. Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4 in the same hole as 1. Each stitch is made by moving forward on the back side then back to the previous stitch on top. To complete the Fly Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2, leaving a loop. Come up at 3 with the needle over the loop, pull the thread to a V shape. Go down at 4 to anchor the V shape. To complete the French Knot Note: This stitch requires two hands.  The french knot can be a little tricky to master but once you get the hang of it, it will become one of your favorite stitches.Start on the back side of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric at 1.  Keeping the needle point close to the fabric at 1, wrap the thread around the needle 2 or 3 times.  With the needle point resting on 2 pull the thread taut and down to the needle point.  Then bring the needle down in 2 right next to 1 but not in the same hole.   To complete the Split Stitch Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 stitching through the previous stitch piercing the strands of floss.  Create another stitch by bringing your needle down at 4 and up at 5 repeating the process. To complete the Smyrna or Double Cross Stitch The Smyrna Cross Stitch looks similar to the Eyelet Stitch but instead of having a hole in the center the thread goes all the way across making an x over a +.  Start on the back side of the fabric and bring your needle up through the fabric at 1 then down through at 2.  Bring your needle up through at 3 and back down at 4.  Continue around.  To complete the Fill or Long/Short Stitch Use the long and short stitch to fill large shapes.  You can use one color or multiple for different shading.  Starting at the top or bottom of a shape, create a row of parallel stitches varying the length.  Next work a second row of long stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the stitch above.  Continue working rows until the shape is filled.When filling circles be careful not to go to far out on the sides or the circle will start to look more oval.  If you are having trouble keeping your stitches straight, use a ruler to draw parallel lines in. Terms When I refer to a “length of floss” I mean 12 to 18 inches of floss pulled from the numbered end of the skein and cut. This does not need to be an exact measurement, some will say about an arms length. A length can be shorter if you don’t need that much thread but I don’t recommend going over 18 inches. Longer lengths of thread are harder to handle and more prone to twisting and knotting. I also use the term “different phases of variegation” this means I am using lengths of floss purposely cut so the change in colors are different from a previous cut. I do this to get a greater color variation. Working with variegated floss. Variegated floss is one of my favorite threads to stitch with especially when stitching things from nature. If you look closely at things in nature you will see they are rarely one solid color. Besides natural color variations, light plays a role too causing highlights and shadows on objects. With the right variegated thread you can easily simulate this look. Since variegated threads only start to change color after you have done a number of stitches I use a little trick to get the highlighted look. For example if you were to use two strands of variegated green floss to stitch leaves your first few leaves would be one shade of green. Your next would be a lighter shade of green and so on. But with one little tweak you can change that. The trick is to stagger your individual strands of floss so they are not the same color. Using two or three stands of floss from different phases of the variegation will give you a look of light and dark without having to change threads. I refer to this method as staggering To do this cut two lengths of six strand floss no longer than 18 inches. Be sure they are in different phases of variegation. Separate one strand of thread from each length of six strands. Thread the single strands together in one needle. You can do this with any number of strands but I usually limit it to three strands. As you can see you will get varying areas of highlight and shadow. Rings DMC 67 VariegatedSplit stitch with three strands of floss Each ring is stitched in a split stitch with three strands of floss. To achieve a noticeable color variation each ring is started with a new length of floss from a different phase of variegation. If you want a more gradual color change continue all three rings from the same length of floss. For even more variation in color, you can stagger your strands of floss.Because the rings are meant to look like they are overlapping it doesn’t matter what section of the rings you move too when crossing a break in the rings (like where the bee is covering them)If you are having trouble picking out the rings from the branches check out the color chart. Branches DMC 105 variegatedFill stitch with two strands of staggered flossIf you are new to the fill stitch, branches are a great place to start. They are bumpy, twisted and full of protrusions, so there is no need to worry about having perfect stitches. All of the branches are stitched in two strands of staggered floss. I made it a point to get some of the lightest part of the thread in there for highlights. A French knot was also added at the end of the branch in the upper left corner (of the image) to make it look like it had been cut. Leaves DMC 4066 variegatedSplit stitch or back stitch in one or two strands of staggered floss for the outline. The Fly Stitch for the veins.There are a variety of ways to stitch leaves. The leaves shown here are stitched with a combination of back stitches and split stitches. The veins of the larger leaves are stitched with two strands of staggered floss. The veins of the smaller leaves are stitched with one strand of floss. All of the leaves are outlined with two strands of staggered floss. If you look closely you will see I stitched each leaf a little differently. I think it looks a little more natural that way but if you prefer a more consistent look they can all be stitched the same. You could also fill the leaves in with a fish bone stitch or fill stitch. Apple Blossoms DMC 4180 variegated & DMC 725Split stitch and back stitch outlines.French Knots or Cross Stitch Centers One, two or three strands depending on the size of the flower.Like the leaves the flowers are stitched a little differently depending on their size. Larger flowers are created with a split stitch and three strands of floss on the outline and one to two strands in the center. Smaller flowers are made with a back stitch in two strands of floss for the outline and one strand in the center. For the yellow centers use either a cross stitch or French knots in two strands of floss. For a more consistent look all of the flowers can be stitched the same. Bees DMC 310, 307, 67 variegatedBack stitch and fill stitch in one to two strands of flossThe body is outlined with a back stitch in two strands of yellow. Then filled using two strands. Each black and yellow section will take 3 to 5 stitches to fill. The head is outlined in two strands of black and then filled with two strands. If you do not want the outline of the body visible, your fill stitches can extend over the top of the outline. To do this start your fill stitches on the outside of the outline and extend them over the top. The legs and antennas are one strand of black.The wings are outline with a back stitch in one strand of floss of the lightest section of the 67 blue variegated. For bolder wings you could use a darker section of blue or black. Text This pattern is available with a blank space in the rings or Mom. You can easily add any name, monogram or phase you like. DMC 321 (optional text)Split back stitch in two or three strands of flossA split-back stitch is a combination of the split stitch and the back stitch. It is made just like a back stitch but instead of the needle entering the fabric at the last stitch hole you move back slightly and split the previous stitch entering the fabric from the top instead of from the bottom.The advantage to a split-back stitch is it very easy to make small smooth split stitches for curvy areas such as letting. The disadvantage is it uses a lot more thread.Letters can also be stitched in a normal back stitch or split stitch. The image shows a split-back stitch in three strands of floss. Displaying Your Finished Work There are a number of ways to display a finished embroidery piece. You can leave it in the hoop, make a small quilted wall hanging, or mount it in a frame, just to name a few. If you frame it in the hoop you can hang it on the wall or place it in a display stand.(Display stand available here)You can also put the adjusting hardware to the top and add a bow and string to hang it on the wall. Paint, stain, tape or fabric are all fun ways to decorate a hoop. For best results stitch the project with a plain hoop. Then remove the outer hoop ring and apply any decorative product. After the hoop is dry re-hoop the fabric and finish the back. Finishing the Back If you choose to frame your embroidery in the hoop you will want to finish the back. To do this you will need a 30 inch long piece of sewing thread or a single strand of embroidery floss.To finish the back start by trimming the corners, leaving about an inch of fabric. Starting with your needle on the backside of the fabric, bring your needle up through the fabric about a quarter inch from the edge. Leave a three or four inch tail of thread to the inside. Continue to stitch a loose running stitch all the way around the hoop. Try to stay about a quarter of an inch away from the edge of the fabric.When you get back to your first stitch, pull the tail thread and the needle thread together. This will gather and bunch the fabric. Tie the two ends of thread together with a secure knot. Cut off any excess thread. You can use a little steam along the edges to help it lay flat. To completely cover the back you can cut a piece of felt the same size as the hoop and stitch it or glue it to the back. Add Some Sparkle To make your piece really pop try adding a few sequence or seed beads.For a more subtle shimmering effect try a specialty thread or floss.Check out our selection of beads & embellishments. SHOP NOW Share Your Work! You did it, great job! Thank you so much for joining me on this stitch along project. If you enjoyed this pattern snap a photo of your finished piece and share it on social media.I love seeing your work and your unique take on patterns so don't forget to tag me. #wildflowerfoxcrafts Follow me on Instagram Join me In the Hoop Get all of the latest news, tips & tutorials delivered right to your inbox!There is always something fun happening in the hoop. Learn More IN THE HOOP Sign up to get the latest on sales, new releases and more … Subscribe